Red's Diner

Perogies, Kielbasa and a Counter Seat

3.5 of 5

Red's started on Fourth Street SW and now has five rooms around Calgary, and Avenue Calgary named it the city's best diner this year. The Ramsay location is the one with the most personality: a free-standing building on the corner of 11th Avenue and 8th Street SE, high ceilings, two dining wings, a proper counter and a patio for the four warm weeks. Reclaimed wood, brick, art by local painters. It looks like somebody loved it into existence.

Order the prairie breakfast plate. Eggs, potato cheddar perogies and kielbasa, the honest breakfast of the prairies, and it goes down like a history lesson you can finish. The 58th Avenue Benedict, named for the location down south, is the house riff on the classic. The Montreal smoked meat hash brings a little Saint-Laurent to the foothills, and the French toast stuffed with blueberry, basil and goat cheese is for the person who wants a surprise before nine.

Portions are generous, cooking is from scratch, and the prices still make sense, a rare trio in any city now. Go on a weekday, take a stool at the counter, and watch the line cooks work. I trust a kitchen I can see. This one has nothing to hide.

Order this: Prairie breakfast plate with perogies and kielbasa, 58th Avenue eggs Benedict, Montreal smoked meat hash, Blueberry, basil and goat cheese stuffed French toast
The damage: $
Go: Weekday breakfast, at the counter; doors open at 7
Find it: 1101 8 St SE, Calgary, AB T2G 2Z6