The Beltliner

Named for a Streetcar, Built for a Hangover

3.5 of 5

The Beltline once had a streetcar that looped the neighborhood, and in 2015 Brendan Bankowski named a diner after it. The Beltliner calls itself a modern and casual take on the classic diner, which in practice means real cooking by a crew that keeps its ego in the walk-in. That is the right ratio. Tall white walls, red stools at the bar, an open kitchen, big windows onto 12th Avenue.

The opening menu carried a Hangtown Fry, the old gold rush plate of eggs and fried oysters, dressed up with crème fraîche and caviar, and the owner's Saskatchewan roots showed up in the pies. Menus move on. The instincts stayed. Chicken and waffles is the dish regulars name first, and the pie still gets more praise than most restaurants get for their mains. The kitchen cooks with local, seasonal and handmade ingredients, and it has fun doing it.

There is a coffee counter up front pouring a house blend called Route #5 from Calgary Heritage Roasting, plus breakfast sandwiches and pastries for anyone who has to get back to a desk. Sit down if you can. The place runs seven to three on weekdays and eight to three on weekends. Order the chicken and waffles, save room for pie, and tip the person refilling your coffee. They earned it before you woke up.

Order this: Chicken and waffles, A slice of pie, whatever is in the case, An egg dish from the breakfast side, Route #5 coffee from the counter
The damage: $$
Go: Late morning on a weekday, or a weekend before ten
Find it: 243 12 Ave SW, Calgary, AB T2R 1H6