Seafood tasting menu restaurant in Gentofte, Copenhagen

Jordnær

The Kid From Tingbjerg Cooks the Sea

4.5 of 5

Eric Kragh Vildgaard grew up in Tingbjerg, a tough estate on the edge of Copenhagen, a long way from any tasting menu. Now he and his wife Tina run a restaurant in the quiet northern suburb of Gentofte, and in 2024 it became the third restaurant in the Copenhagen area to hold three Michelin stars. Eric cooks. Tina runs the room. Nobody here needs a publicist to tell the story, because the story is on the plate.

The menu is almost all seafood, and it does not apologise for luxury. The current run moves through king crab with sudachi, lobster with yuzu and sansho pepper, bluefin otoro with myoga and Kaluga caviar, a crisp rosette waffle loaded with fjord shrimp, and a chawanmushi of king crab and galangal. Some plates are restrained to the point of bravery, like hamachi with ponzu and wasabi. Others are built in layers you could study for an hour. It ends with turbot, Banyuls and caviar, then a pavlova with Miyazaki mango and a slice of Shizuoka crown melon.

The menu is 4,500 kroner, and there is no vegetarian version, so do not ask. Skip the cologne, too. The restaurant requests it, and with food this delicate they are right. Dinner runs Tuesday to Friday from six, with lunch on the first Saturday of each month. Take the train north, sit down, and let a man who rebuilt his life one plate at a time show you what that took.

Order this

King crab, sudachi and jabasco, Chawanmushi with king crab and galangal, Turbot, Banyuls and caviar, Pavlova with Miyazaki mango and sheep's cream

The damage

$$$$

Go

A weeknight dinner, or the first Saturday of the month for lunch

Find it

Gentoftegade 29, 2820 Gentofte

Website

restaurantjordnaer.dk