Il Ristorante Niko Romito

Italian, Boiled Down

4 of 5

Niko Romito's whole philosophy is subtraction. Michelin awarded his Bvlgari restaurant two stars in June 2022, and his own words for the cooking are purity and extreme synthesis of taste. Translate that to the plate: fewer things, each one more itself. After a day of Dubai's more-is-more dining, a kitchen that edits instead of piles on is a relief.

The room sits on Jumeira Bay Island inside the Bvlgari Resort, with raised banquettes facing the Arabian Gulf under a dramatic black ceiling. Resident Head Chef Giacomo Amicucci runs the daily work while Romito sets the direction, the way any good chef with several restaurants has to. The menus run from a la carte to a Degustazione, a vegetarian menu and I Classici, so you can pick your commitment level. Italian food at this tier lives or dies on restraint, and restraint is the point of the house.

Dinner only, Tuesday to Saturday, with last seating at 10:30 PM. Book through the resort. Dress like you mean it, but do not mistake the setting for stiffness. A tasting menu built on holding back asks you to slow down and taste, and that is a rarer skill in this city than any truffle shaving. Two stars, and the two are earned. Cross town for it.

Order this: The Degustazione tasting menu, I Classici for the greatest hits, The vegetarian menu, which is a real menu, A la carte if you want control
The damage: $$$$
Go: Dinner, Tuesday to Saturday, a seat by the Gulf windows
Find it: Bvlgari Resort Dubai, Jumeira Bay Island, Jumeira 2, Dubai