Contemporary Malaysian tasting menu in KLCC, Kuala Lumpur

Dewakan

Eat The Country, Not The Tower

4 of 5

Dewakan holds two Michelin stars and a Green Star, and it earned both by cooking Malaysian food as though the country were worth studying. Chef Darren Teoh works from a tasting menu built on local ingredients, many of them fermented or dry-aged in house, with a nose-to-tail approach and plates made by local artisans. It sits on the 48th floor with the skyline spread out behind it, and the best thing about that is how little the cooking needs the view.

The point is the pantry. Malaysia has a staggering range of native ingredients that most kitchens ignore in favor of imported things with prestigious names. This room does the opposite, and you can taste the argument. It is also the most serious meal in a city that has plenty of serious meals, so go in hungry and with room on the credit card. It is the highest price tier in the Michelin guide.

Book directly, since reservations are self-managed. Service runs Monday to Saturday evenings, from 6pm to 11:30pm, and Sundays are dark. If you are going to spend a night on one formal dinner in Kuala Lumpur, this is the one that teaches you where you actually are.

Order this

The tasting menu, House-fermented and dry-aged courses, The beverage pairing

The damage

$$$$

Go

Monday to Saturday evenings, booked ahead

Find it

48F, Skyviews, Naza Tower, Platinum Park, 10 Persiaran KLCC, Kuala Lumpur 50088

Website

dewakan.my