Illustration by Fig & Ginger, drawn from the review. The venue's own photo is on its way.
Brewery taproom (city outpost) in Stazione Centrale, Milan
Birrificio Italiano
A Kind of Pils, Near Centrale
Agostino Arioli opened Birrificio Italiano as a brewpub in Lurago Marinone, north of Milan, in 1996. Its first beer was Tipopils. Thirty years on, beer writers in Britain and brewers in California still talk about it as one of the finest pilsners in Europe, and Firestone Walker built its Pivo Pils after Arioli openly shared how he dry-hopped his. Tipo means a kind of. A kind of pils. The man is being modest.
You do not have to drive toward Como to drink it. Since autumn 2017 the brewery has kept a city outpost on Via Ferrante Aporti, a few minutes from Stazione Centrale, in a room designed by DWA Design Studio. Ten taps and one English hand pump pour the brewery's own beers and its Klanbarrique line, the barrel projects born from a brewer working with two winemakers. A cellar holds bottles and vintages, some from guest breweries the house respects. Cicchetti come straight from a glass case at the counter.
Start with Tipopils, unfiltered and dry-hopped, with cut grass on the nose and a dry, bittersweet finish. Then go darker. Bibock is the brewery's own idea of a bock, nutty and caramel with a hoppy finish. Nigredo is a dark hoppy lager made with roasted hops. Asteroid 56013 is their salute to the classic West Coast IPA. If you are leaving Milan by train, this is the last proper stop before the platforms.
- Order this
- Tipopils, Bibock, Nigredo, Asteroid 56013
- The damage
- $$
- Go
- Evenings, or before a train from Stazione Centrale
- Find it
- Via Ferrante Aporti 12, 20125 Milano
- Website
- birrificio.it