Milan

Reviews Milan Dinner

Da Giacomo, Monforte
Da Giacomo, Sottocorno

Illustration by Fig & Ginger, drawn from the review. The venue's own photo is on its way.

Seafood restaurant in Monforte, Milan

Da Giacomo

The Fish in the Front Window

3.5 of 5

Giacomo Bulleri opened his first Milan restaurant in 1958 and moved it to Via Pasquale Sottocorno in 1989. The rooms were designed by Renzo Mongiardino, the decorator famous for making new rooms look a century old: boiserie, stucco, arches, a patterned terrazzo floor. The effect is an early-1900s Milanese trattoria that came into money and kept its manners.

Fish is the point. The day's catch sits in the window at the entrance, crustaceans, white fish and blue fish in all sizes, so the table can pick. The menu leans on the great Italian seafood classics. Spaghetti with clams. Seafood salad. Fish soup. There is raw fish too, plus a little meat and vegetarian cooking for the stubborn. The cellar is Italian first, with old vintages and big formats, then takes a French detour for whites, reds and Champagne.

The Giacomo name now covers a bistrot next door, a rosticceria, a pastry shop, a café in the Palazzo Reale and outposts from Lake Como to Forte dei Marmi. Forget the empire. This room on Sottocorno is the original, and it is open every day for lunch and for a dinner that runs late. Order the spaghetti with clams, then let the waiter walk you to the window.

Order this
Spaghetti with clams, Seafood salad, Fish soup, Whatever is best in the window that day
The damage
$$$$
Go
Any day; lunch 12.30 to 15.00, dinner 19.00 until midnight
Find it
Via Pasquale Sottocorno 6, 20129 Milano