Brasserie, fish and shellfish in Stureplan (Östermalm), Stockholm

Sturehof

Every Day of the Year on Stureplan

3.5 of 5

Ernst Marcus opened a beer parlour called Malta on this corner in 1887. It became Sturehof in 1905 and stayed a family business until 1976. In the early nineties a group of friends, among them the designer Jonas Bohlin and the photographer Bruno Ehrs, took it apart and rebuilt it, and the restaurant has since moved back into the rooms where it began. It opens every day of the year, from late morning until two at night. That tells you who it is for. Everybody.

At heart it is a brasserie, French and Swedish in roughly equal parts, with fish and shellfish in charge. The house owns a fishing boat, the SM4 Tarona, runs its own fish cleaning operation and grows produce at Ulriksdals Värdshus, so a lot of what you eat has skipped the middlemen. The menu changes daily. At lunch, go straight to the plat du jour: fried pollock with grilled pointed cabbage, pickles and remoulade, or meatballs with cream sauce, pressed cucumber and lingonberries, both around 325 to 335 kronor. Start with three little plates of herring and Västerbotten cheese. Finish with the princess cake.

The dining room spans two floors with tall windows, and the fish Ernst Billgren made for the walls of the Mellanbaren are part of a permanent art collection. It is loud and busy and fully aware of its address, yet the people working the floor are pros. If there is no table, take a seat at the bar. Save the seafood plateau for a day when someone else is paying.

Order this

The plat du jour: fried pollock with remoulade, or meatballs with cream sauce, Sturehof's herring plates with Västerbotten cheese, Toast Skagen, Sturehof's princess cake

The damage

$$$

Go

Weekday lunch from 11:30; open every day until 2 at night

Find it

Stureplan 2, 114 35 Stockholm

Website

sturehof.com