The Many Faces of Haleem

A pot of haleem on a low flame, thick enough to hold a spoon upright. The dish was born in the Middle East and is loved in India, Pakistan and Saudi Arabia. It is a hearty stew of grains (usually wheat, barley and lentils), meat (usually beef or lamb) and a good handful of spices.

The secret of haleem is in how it is made and what goes into it. The grains come first. They are the floor the stew stands on, and they thicken it as it cooks. Most cooks soak them in water for several hours before they go into the pot, so they soften and sit easier in the stomach.

The meat is cooked slowly, over low heat, usually for several hours. Time does what the knife cannot: the tough connective tissue gives way and the meat turns tender. In those same long hours the spices and the other ingredients stop being separate things and become one deep flavor.

The spices give the dish its character. Cumin, coriander, cloves, cardamom and cinnamon are the usual company, and they bring warmth and perfume to the stew. Onions, garlic and ginger often join them, adding depth under the surface.

How haleem is served matters as much as how it is cooked. It comes to the table hot, often with yogurt, chopped onions and fresh herbs beside it. It is eaten with flatbread or rice, and there is usually a little chutney or pickle within reach.

Haleem is full of flavor and full of nourishment, and making it asks for a cook’s science, a cook’s hands and a cook’s memory all at once.

The dish changes from one region to the next, and from one kitchen to the next. Here are some of its faces:

1. Traditional haleem: The most common kind, made with grains (usually wheat, barley and lentils), meat (usually beef or lamb) and a mix of spices. It cooks slowly over a low flame for several hours until it is thick and hearty.
2. Chicken haleem: Made with chicken in place of beef or lamb. It is cooked much like traditional haleem, though the time on the fire may be a little shorter, since the chicken pieces are smaller.
3. Vegetarian haleem: Made without meat, from grains and vegetables. It usually carries beans, lentils and vegetables like carrots, peas and potatoes, all seasoned with a mix of spices.
4. Spicy haleem: The same stew with more fire in it, from extra spices or chili peppers. It often comes with yogurt or another cooling side to calm the mouth.
5. Sweet haleem: A sweet turn on the dish, made with sugar or honey. It is often served as dessert, finished with nuts or dried fruit.

One pot, many tables. Haleem takes the shape of whoever is stirring it, and it is still haleem.