Seasonal Nordic restaurant in Forum, Frederiksberg, Copenhagen

Restaurant Radio

Twelve Menus a Year, No Reruns

3.5 of 5

Claus Meyer, one of the two men who started Noma, opened Radio in 2011 with a simple and slightly subversive idea: take everything the New Nordic movement had learned about Danish farmers and fishermen and sell it at a price normal people could pay more than once a year. The name comes from the address, across the street from the old Danish Broadcasting House by Forum. Meyer now shares ownership with the LOCA group, and the idea has not changed.

The menu changes every month, twelve times a year, and the kitchen says no dish repeats from one menu to the next. That is a brutal discipline for cooks, and it keeps the place honest. Produce comes from a handful of growers on Lolland-Falster and Zealand, and there is always at least one vegetarian dish. November brings a pumpkin velouté with crispy sage and a grilled cheese toast to dunk, red deer with roasted kale, glazed beets and blackberries, and an apple tart with ice cream that tastes of burnt cheesecake. Comfort food, Nordic accent, cooked with real care.

Three courses cost 450 kroner, five cost 595 and seven cost 845, which in this city is close to a public service. The whole package, with an aperitif, seven glasses and coffee, runs 1,845. Tell them about allergies a day ahead. Go early in the month while the new menu is still exciting the cooks, sit under the chalk drawings of vegetables, and order all seven.

Order this

The seven course menu, Pumpkin velouté with crispy sage and a grilled cheese toast, Red deer with roasted kale, glazed beets and blackberries, Apple tart with burnt cheesecake ice cream

The damage

$$

Go

Early in the month, when the new menu has just landed

Find it

Julius Thomsens Gade 12, 1632 København V

Website

restaurantradio.dk