Illustration by Fig & Ginger, drawn from the review. The venue's own photo is on its way.
Latin American grill and cocktail bar in KLCC, Kuala Lumpur
Fuego at Troika Sky Dining
Ceviche Above the Park
Rooftop restaurants are a gamble. The view is guaranteed, the food is a coin toss. Fuego, on Level 23A of The Troika, has been flipping that coin since 2015 and keeps landing it, because it chose a cuisine that suits the altitude. Latin food is loud, smoky, sour and made for sharing, and so is a terrace looking straight across KLCC park at the towers.
Start with ceviche, raw fish cooked in lime, which makes more sense in this humidity than anything on a French menu. Then go to the grill. The anticuchos are the honest test: skewers of beef heart and beef tongue, the cuts that nobody in a suit orders and everybody should. Lamb empanadas come one at a time, so order a few. Elote, grilled corn with pecorino and paprika, is a street snack in borrowed clothes. Bigger plates of short rib, lamb ribs and chermoula chicken are there if the table is hungry. Finish with churros.
The bar is half the point. A pisco sour, a mezcal number, a coconut thing served in a coconut. The room runs two seatings and wants the early table back by 8.30, so plan accordingly, or arrive late and take the gazebo. It is not cheap. You are paying for the sky, and for once the kitchen pays its share.
- Order this
- Fuego ceviche, Anticuchos of beef heart and beef tongue, Lamb empanadas, Elote, the grilled corn, Fuego churros
- The damage
- $$$
- Go
- Daily from 6 p.m.; book the first seating for daylight over the park, or walk in after 9.30 p.m. for a drink
- Find it
- Level 23A, Tower B, The Troika, 19 Persiaran KLCC, 50450 Kuala Lumpur
- Website
- fuegodining.com